All prices are in USD

Thursday, March 12, 2009

We're on the Road to Jodhpur--I'll Take That Ride


Sunset view from Jodhpur's Meherangarh fort


Ram Ram!

Thursday evening, 9:11 p.m. March 12, 2009
Jodhpur, Rajasthan


Woke early enough to catch the 8 a.m darshan at Govind Devji with Rajuji, then caught my ride across the sweltering Rajasthani desert country to Jodhpur, a roughly 6 hour drive that we undertook during the heat of the day. The “A/C car” was blowing something more like regular air than conditioned, but it was enough to make it survivable. I can barley contemplate what summer is like around these parts: it’s pretty much “spring” here now, bearing more than a passing resemblance to August in New England. This kind of weather puts me close to my crankiness threshold, for sure—but at least it’s not humid. In fact, it’s a wonder that they can grow as much green plant material in this dry environment as they do.

Jodhpur seems to have some pretty nice elements in place: the old city is full of amazing and decomposing architectural nuggets stacked along windy lanes tiny enough to permit no cars, and in my evening stroll after dropping off my stuff at the guest house, I encountered no end of smiling children wanting to have their pictures taken, tribal family life taking place among the various families living nose-to-nose on the steep hillside in the long sunset shadow of the Meherangarh fort—an impressive array of stone battlements built upon rock indeed. Not sure why, but the theme of blue-wash over the stone homes is hard to miss and easy to enjoy, especially in the dusky afterglow.

Any day’s a good day when being escorted by a driver named Ram, and I’ll be happy to have Ram’s help in the next couple days, as I mix the pleasure of exploring new territory with the business of hunting down folks who’ve been described to me as some of this town’s best antique furniture purveyors, in a town famous for old furniture and architectural elements. We’ll see what I find…




Dusk glows on the western face of the Meherangarh fort



The safety of the spare tire, or, life is cheap on the roads of India!

Garlands

Fresh garland flowers abound in the Govind Devji realm...


Garland wala at entrance to Govind Devji temple, Jaipur



Load of garland flowers freshly delivered to the garland makers



The author, fresh from darshan

More Holi Photos, Jaipur

7:30 a.m. March 12th, 2009
Jaipur

I leave in minutes to Jodhpur. Here are a few more shots from Holi yesterday in Jaipur, caption-free because I'm almost out the door to catch darshan at Sri Govind Devji temple before hitting the big road.









Tuesday, March 10, 2009

A Few Holi Photos



9 p.m. Tuesday March 10th, 2009
Holi in Jaipur


Well, this afternoon I finally took Rob down to the Govind Devji temple complex; we missed darshan but we did catch a little arti at a small temple nearby, and wandered around the outskirts a little bit and soaked up a bit of early Holi energy. Not tons of colors, but saw a couple of rowdy moments on the street and a bunch of friendly faces.

Here’s a few photos to enjoy...









Happy Holi!


Devotees at Govind Dev ji temple in Jaipur (2008)

March 10th, 2009
Jaipur


OK, today begins Holi, the spring festival of color. Beautiful when organic and soulful, boundary-busting and edgy unto dangerous when frolicked in as an excuse for alcohol and violent carousing, this festival goes way back to the time of Lord Krishna and beyond. I've tasted Holi while flying low over the festival fires burning every few blocks in Mumbai, and at homes and ancient temples in Rajasthan, over several years. It's a trip--America's got nothing like this--although I suppose Hallowe'en captures a small bit of its zany spirit.

I'm not sure how much I'll get out today into the madness--but in the meantime, here’s a shot from last year’s Holi time at the radiant Shree Govind Dev ji temple in the center of the Pink City…

Also, I found this blog through Varun responding to my own; a little rap and a couple funky pics about this crazy Holi color festival here in India:

http://varunwithu.blogspot.com/2009/02/holi-phagwa-doljatra-2009.html

Happy Holi!

Dreams and Textiles


LOVE this pattern on an old Gudri blanket from Bengal


5:35 a.m. Tuesday March 10th, 2009
Jaipur

Awoke suddenly a few moments ago from a stark and all too realistic feeling nightmare: I was traveling far from home (though not here in India) and I’d been temporarily abducted at gunpoint, along with several others, and forced inside a house to a back room where I was forced to kneel face down in front of some honcho to face my fate. I instantly realized I must prepare to die immediately. I prayed for calm and courage and sought the stillest, smallest place inside of me to orient around love, forgiveness and presence, and was in a flash ordered to sit up and show my face to my captor/fate decider. I did and he seemed a bit disappointed and said something like, ‘that’s not him’ and then they said I could go, bingo. The others all remained as hostages though, and as I walked out on my own volition to take up a semi-safe station outdoors maybe 100-150 feet from the building in a gas station next door, word filtered out that about two dozen others, foreigners like me, were being held inside at gunpoint. They even sent a captor woman out with two guns to the small group of random people who comprised the folks around me, which ended uneventfully. We were mostly plotting various ways of slipping out of there back to safety. After a while I realized that it was strangely safe to either commandeer a car and drive or otherwise simply walk away and that I needed to get the hell out of there and not linger, and that seemed like it was about to happen even as more details were coming out and it was clear that whatever police and government were now involved in the process… and then I awoke to utter darkness, feeling very nervous and it all seeming very real for a while. The birds starting chirping with gusto, and the pre-dawn call to prayer started being piped over the local neighborhood sound systems, and I gradually came back. Sobering, and weird.

On the upside: it was all a dream, and I did in fact enjoy a nice day yesterday. Went to the wonderful Govind Dev ji temple in the morning with my soul brother Raju, and caught up with him a bit before climbing into work mode. Picked a sofa frame which I plan to upholster with one of these fantastic Suzani pieces, got a couple other quotes and then doubled back with my friend Robert to finish our respective buys at the textile house where we’d discovered these pieces the day or two before.

Robert’s been an unexpected find these last days—an actual friendly, open and communicative fellow westerner (of sorts, he’s from the northern tip of Australia, which is pretty far from my “west”) who’s been fun to kick around with on our hunt for cool old textiles. He had a day or so of unplanned down time which I’d overheard him mention when we were both at the same place working with one of my favorite suppliers whom he was working with for the very first time. I asked him if he had any interest in great old textiles, as I was planning to spend the next day checking out one or two of Jaipur’s best wholesale sources of same; he jumped at it even though it’s not his usual gig, work-wise, and we came to enjoy each other’s company as we ate dust and sifted through hundreds of old Gudri and Suzani and other amazing, weird, and curious items.

I came home and took a nap and then Rob and I went out to grab dinner for one of my too-rare nights out here. Talked business, margin formulas, export shop, family, life and love and have generally enjoyed a little unexpected good company on our respective journeys far from home.

Rob seems to do a pretty nice business in a range of eco-friendly items, furniture and cool lifestyle items, including working with hotels across Asia to outfit their places with various great gear. If you ever need to outfit your hotel in Asia, give a shout and I’ll hook you up with him—he knows his stuff and I’ve been impressed by his professionalism and knowledge of and sensitivity to his own business and its impact on the planet, and just his plain old decency. With so many of my friends in India here for more devotional reasons (as am I at heart), it’s also been really nice to be able to talk shop and relate about some of the other crazy and amazing reasons why he and I are both here, working.

OK, time to try and go back to bed and take some rest before the sun comes up into the cacophony of dawn birdsong.



One of the Afghan Suzani pieces I just found-soon to be an amazing custom upholstered sofa?



Jai Shree Krishna!

And Happy Holi everyone!

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Happy Hunting

In my element, awash in history


11:14 p.m., Sunday March 8, 2009


Today is my father Edward’s birthday—#79. Just spoke with him by phone a bit ago, wishing him well in Concord New Hampshire during his morning and my evening of the same day.

Today was a grand adventure through two nice warehouse showrooms of textiles young and old. One I’ve been to a number of times, the other was a gem offered by our driver Surjeet, with whose car service I intend to travel to both Vrindavan and Jodhpur, in whichever order unfolds.

I went initially in search of old Gudri blankets, wonderful textiles with a marvelous variety of form and color represented in their patterns, sometimes manically different from front to back. Some I want to use for a small upholstery project, some for making some one-of-a-kind, uber-special party jackets, and some for simply bringing home to enjoy as is.

Lo and behold, the first stop even had a stack of enormous hand-embroidered vintage Afghan Suzani pieces, quite like the ones I scouted out myself last year in Afghanistan for me and some friends in New York. (Though I paid about half this asking price when I was in Afghanistan, no doubt. This year, it doesn’t feel worth the risk to travel there again.)

I picked a few out, sent some pics to a couple of clients to see if they were of interest, and picked a few that were nice enough to want to keep for sure, even though my budget didn’t include a Suzani score. That’s why God made credit cards, right? And scored almost twenty sweet Gudri pieces along the way, too. I’m having those cleaned and delivered to my guest house tomorrow—nice!


A splendid Afghan piece from the day's exploits


Got textiles?

Recent News

Newsletter