Leaving Vrindavan

9:25 a.m., Wednesday April 8th, 2009
Vrindavan, India



Now this is an unusual and wonderful farewell from Maha Vraja: a major thunder and lightning storm sweeping over Vrindavan right now as I write on our last morning. Not sure I’ve ever really seen anything like this here in the Jan-April months—a refreshing change of pace from the dust and swelter I’ve been slowly acclimating to.



It’s true I want to stay here in India and enjoy the incomparable devotional lusciousness that is still so alive here even in this ever-modernizing culture, but one thing I will clearly relish being home is the cool clean air that surrounds my sweet country home. No more relentless dust and diesel, that will be a boon to my lungs.

But meanwhile, it is truly amazing here! Wandering around the sacred Govardhan Hill near Jatipura over the last several afternoons with Shyamdas (and whomever else is drawn into the lila) reveals little gems every day. Two nights ago, it was a ramble along the inner path with a young and sparkling-voiced young singer from Nathdwara, Coco Pandit, who sang along much of the walk with us, including a luscious half hour within an ancient small temple on top of the Hill. The natural resonance in that small stone space enveloped our tiny satsang in reverberant rapture, while pilgrims occasionally wandered in and prostrated themselves before the resident deity.

Last night, it was Panditji (Shyamdas’ old Sanskrit pandit buddy) meeting, engaging in friendly discourse and ultimately bursting into spontaneous song with an ancient sadhu who has been living in a tiny stone room just off the Govardhan Hill for who knows how long, maybe 40-50 years. Different schools and practices, but as Shyamdas said, their respective journeys into their own sadhanas have opened their minds and allowed them to meet on a high and sweet level. A treat to witness, in the sunset gloaming of the Govardhan Hill.



And now, the morning of my last day in Vrindavan is here, and within 8 hours, I will be in car rattling my way back into Delhi. One more very full day of sourcing a few straggler items and gifts for friends will be followed by an attempt to find Neem Karoli Baba’s elusive North Delhi temple, which I’ve never been to. Then its time for the midnight flyer back to New York.

Sigh. Another journey draws to a close…

Govardhan lila

8:20 a.m., Saturday April 4th, 2009
Vrindavan, India



Yesterday we managed to miss Siddhi Ma darshan at Neem Karoli Baba’s ashram (too late; will try again today), but later we enjoyed a nice afternoon barefoot stroll around a portion of the Govardhan Hill near Jatipura, said to be the most-circumambulated sacred hill in the world. Walked with Shyamdas and Sridhar, Sara and Marjon, Mohan and Govind. Always a pleasure to feel the dust of Vraja in one’s toes.

Here’s some pics…

Radhe Radhe

11:30 p.m., Thursday April 2nd, 2009
Vrindavan, India


Maharaj ji's son, Dharma Narayan, speaking with Shyamdas at the ashram in Vrindavan


Radhe Shyam! A fine day here in Vrindavan: began with a slow morning at MVT and a quick check of e-mail at the webjoint across the way. A cycle rickshaw wala took us down the road and in for some morning shopping for textiles and wearables down at the Loi Bazaar. After an afternoon shower and freshen up, Shyamdas and Tulsi came by and picked up Shridhar and Marjon (sp?) and Sara and myself and we all went to visit the Neem Karoli Baba ashram.

Siddhi Ma is there for a couple weeks but she was laying low so we did not have darshan with her. Hung out in various sweet nooks there, and then we all had a nice group hang for a while with NKB’s son who lives over in a corner room downstairs. After a few minutes Sara was even able to set up our hi-def video scene and we captured a relaxed and extended conversation with Dharma Narayana and Shyamdas, SD offering a running translation. Mostly a conversation about Maharaj ji and various aspects of what Dharma Narayana saw and experienced being in the role of his son in that whole lila. Sweet time, and great video score. Also met another sweetheart member of the satsang, JR (Jai Ram), who got swept up in our afternoon adventures and so we got a chance to vibe in a bit.







Then we doubled back for a major celebration inside the grounds of the MVT complex, navigating hundreds of Hare Krishna devotees in the midst of a chanting frenzy, staying long enough to be ready to go.

The evening was topped off by a visit to Kesi ghat where another member of the extended satsang has been renovating a 200 year old haveli/temple trip on the banks of the sacred Yamuna River here in Vrindavan central. Amazing spot, stone steps down to the river, epic stone architecture, great restoration, with a wonderful sounding main courtyard that has fine acoustics for an evening kirtan chant. I’d heard about this project last year, it was cool to see it so far along tonight. I’d actually been to this same spot off the river on my first week in India back in 1998, it kindled an old memory…

Tomorrow, the lila continues.




The view from my mala wala's shop, looking onto the passing parade

Breakfast of Champions

9:15 a.m., Tuesday March 31st, 2009
New Delhi


Gotta say, these heaping bowls of fresh mangos (‘mangoes’?) and pomegranates are a superb way to begin the culinary day! Truly a breakfast of champions—sorry Wheaties!

Drill, baby, drill!

11:11 p.m., Monday March 30th, 2009
New Delhi

Sara arrived a couple nights ago and I’ve not written since. Suddenly life seems busier than ever. She just today got some dental work done (an implant/tooth replacement) here in Delhi, at a fraction of the cost in the USSA even including the airfare etc. Bizarro-world. She’s been a trooper, even with the mandated prescription for post-surgical ice cream (Royal Alphonso-flavored, courtesy of the Saravana Bhavan restaurant down the road.

Dialects

11:30 p.m., Thor’s day March 26rd, 2009
New Delhi




It’s so easy and natural, it happens in a blur of acclimation. My language goes local to make easier my communications with people with often limited or unconventional approaches to English comp. Sara’s been noticing it in our phone conversations. Perfect example tonight speaking with Kamal here at Abracadabra:

Me: Kamal ji, do you know if anyone is going to be checking into Room 3 in the next few days?

Kamal, with cocked head and quizzical look: Eh?

Me, pointing to the room: Room 3, tomorrow, coming, anyone?

Kamal, understanding: Oh, no, no one…

Grinding On

11 a.m., Wednesday March 23rd, 2009
New Delhi


The Marwari opium seller of Meherangarh Fort

Can’t say these have been the most inspiring of days. (Though there’s been a few moments.) I quasi-tweaked my back in Jaipur—just one of those funny movements where I felt a sheath of muscle in my mid/upper back suddenly tense and contract and serve notice that any more bad moves would likely result in a number of days of supinity.

I’ve managed OK since then, but the other day it kept reminding me it was still here, waiting to go on strike and this encouraging me into a more relaxed pace than is my usual here in the Delhi grind pit. A steady diet of ibuprofen has also been on the menu—and where’s that opium-dishing Marwari guard when I need him? Understandably righteous ideology notwithstanding, there’s a time and place for painkillers, it turns out. I’m not quite there, but I think I’m within sight.

Anyway, it’s all moving in slow motion, and allowing myself liberal time to take rest in my AC room here at the Abracadabra guest house (downstairs room 7, for those keeping score at home) seems to be an integral part of sanity.

On the other hand, the prospect of hitting the streets in search of Green Tara, old statuary and maybe a harmonium, is keeping my head in the game…


Mrs. Sharma supervising the cutting of a vintage Gudri blanket into its new life: a one-of-a-kind party jacket